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Joined 2 years ago
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Cake day: July 2nd, 2023

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  • Unpopular opinion: The license makes sense and should have been enforced from the start.

    The Benchy is a benchmarking tool, not just visually but there are also various features you can measure and check against the dimensions on the website. But that doesn’t work if the model you’re printing has been modified.

    If it looks like a beachy, it should have been printed from the original model, so it’s always comparable. Preventing derivatives means you can be sure of that, even if it came on the included SD card with your printer. Otherwise, manufacturers could include a modified model that makes their printers look better than they are.




  • It looks like you would want an even airflow through the whole PSU. The main heat-generating components are using the sides of the housing as a heat sink. I’m guessing the fan is mostly so the air inside the housing doesn’t get too warm, not to cool individual components.

    Where is the original air exhaust? If it’s near the bottom of the picture, that would confirm my theory. In that case, I would keep the fan placement as close to original as possible (i.e. the blue square).



  • This seems to be a bug in the slicer. I’m seeing the same issue in OrcaSlicer if the skirt height is set to more than one layer (even if the skirt is disabled). This makes sense if a skirt is used (can’t print a continuous spiral if you have to switch between printing the object and the skirt), but not if it’s disabled.

    What slicer are you using? If it’s a PrusaSlicer fork, this is likely the same bug.


  • From a cursory read of the datasheet, using the “dead time control” pin seems to be the way to go. Basically, this pin is used to set the voltage, while the error amplifier inputs (that’s the closest function to “over current protection” this chip has) are used to adjust the output according to the load. For your application, you probably don’t need to use them at all.

    My instinct would be to disable the error amplifiers by connecting pins 1,2,15 and 16 to GND. You can then connect the wiper pin of the potentiometer to the deadtime control input, with the other pins of the potentiometer connected to GND and 3.3 V.

    I haven’t worked with this chip before, so take this with a grain of salt. You should probably use a simulation tool to check the circuit before you start destroying chips.




  • It’s called HDR (High Dynamic Range) photography. Your phone is taking three pictures: one at a medium exposure, one at a bit higher exposure and one at a bit lower exposure.

    The higher exposed picture will have a blown-out sky, but more detail in the darker area, while the lower-exposed one will have a correctly exposed sky with the darker areas underexposed.

    These pictures are then combined by taking the correctly exposed areas of each picture, i.e. the sky from the low-exposure picture and the shadows from the high-exposure one, giving you a single picture without over- or underexposed areas.

    I don’t know about OpenCamera, but you should be able to select the size of the exposure bracket, meaning how much higher or lower the different pictures are exposed.