~$ touch grass

Those are some crisp photographs!

Such a cute lil face!

What happened to the platform below?

Don’t worry, all you need is a free ISA slot!

I remember setting the memory buttons up, but I don’t actually use them. The KD3005D is probably fine, too. Personally, I’d still prefer fine-adjusting voltage and current via the incremental encoder and pushbutton of the KA3005D. The price difference around here is ~20%.

I recommend the KORAD KA3005D. It’s a reasonably priced, relatively small size unit with great controls.

Edit: Am using it in my home lab as well as my current and previous work environment (among other power supplies).

Update: the thermostat was never faulty, my own oven behaves exactly the same.

It has two heating elements in the top, one of them is active when you select top + bottom heat. It is only 800W. The other one comes on when you select a grill function.

I got it for free on a local marketplace. The owner just said it worked alright in those years.

I was about to say yes, but there was one part left that I wasn’t sure what it is, so I checked. The casing says ELTH 271P / T200, which from what I can gather is a thermal cut-off switch. A potential problem cause?

The active one out of two top heating coils measures 3.6A, roughly 800W at 230V. Seems alright and should not trigger it I guess.

I mentioned it in other comments, but I’m going to edit the post to include it there.

It’s an AEG model I think, sold under the IKEA FRAMTID series (OV9 model). Thermostat is an EGO 55.17253.120. Similar thermostats are barely cheaper than a new identical model where I live.

That sounds like a zero drift/calibration error.

That’s what I thought too, but when I try it with bottom heat only, it switches just at the right temperature.

If its got a computer in it u might be fucked.

The oven only has a display for the clock and the roasting thermometer, the thermostat is independent (an EGO 55.17253.120).

If u got a physical temperature knob u could always just rotate it on the dial by 80C

I really want to avoid that.

Placement looks okay to me, sure is dirty up there though. Could that be the issue?

I’ve been wondering about whether I could replace it with a cheaper thermostat with a similar rating. I’m gonna check the placement.

I might have phrased that a little ambiguously. The thermostat does not switch off at 80 degrees, but 80 degrees below target temperature (set 150, reached 70).

The replacement thermostat is 40€, which is more than I usually intend to spend on a repair, so it would be a shame to buy it and find that the fault is still there.

Thanks for the read, that sent me down an interesting rabbit hole