turdburglar

i print protest posters with my screen press

revolution. you?

oh luelinks, you are missed

thanks, but i’m not embarrassed. i’m too old for that.

also, yall are wrong.

hello internet friend.

aesthetic does not mean nice looking. a pleasing aesthetic is nice looking. a displeasing aesthetic is not nice looking.

they way you are using the word is like describing a cold beer as ‘very temperature’, or a fast car as ‘many speed’

alas i do not know the answer to your question, i’m merely here as in online pedant. thank you for your attention. carry on.

well of all the threadiverse posts of this image, this one has the most discussion.

pls leave it.

“grab em by the pussy” is no big deal, maybe?

you should run for elected office.

i’m not sure what yall are calling “dry” but generally when applying penetrating oil finishes, one applies a generous amount to the wood, waits a given amount of time, usually a 20 minutes to an hour, and then wipes off the excess. then you flip the rag over and wipe it again. then again. ultimately you want the rag to come back clean and then you’re done.

that’s pretty much it. it’s as dry as it needs to be to be before buffing, waxing, or buffing and waxing the surface.

if you’re waiting days for the oils to dry, it seems likely to me that you’re leaving way too much oil on the wood.

i witnessed its effects on the woods that i’ve applied it to. i’m a woodworker, not a scientist or academic paper reader/writer.

i’m not sure why it’s now MY petroleum product tho, that’s a weird and aggressive way to ask your (i think rhetorical) question.

doing in fact, when it comes down to it MY preferred finish is actually shellac, but it doesn’t perform well in kitchen applications.

well i’m a woodworker, and as such i relish a good hassle.

walnut oil is lovely. it doesn’t penetrate the wood as deeply as the mineral oil + beeswax tho.

mineral oil is sold at the pharmacy as a laxitive. so yeah, violent greasy shits.

it’s also cheaper to buy at the pharmacy than it is to buy at the woodworking shops as a finish. same stuff tho.

i mean, ok. but as an actual woodworker, my knowledge base shows mineral oil to be a standard food grade treatment for wooden kitchen implements.

the mineral oil makes the beeswax into a soft paste. it wipes out of the pot quite easily.

get you some mineral oil and beeswax. 2/1 ratio. heat them in a saucepan on low heat until combined. pour the mixture into a shallow vessel - empty tuna cans work great. allow the mixture to solidify. use a dry clean cloth to apply the paste to cutting board. let it sit for an hour and then wipe off the excess.

repeat once a month-ish or when the wood starts to lighten.

clearly, the lemon party.

no, stupid. questions?

mike jonnnes

naw, just makin a houston-based rap joke.